Now, to understand how to color hair as a stylist, it is necessary to understand the law of color. We would like to refer to the color wheel for this information to help you understand what that means. Let’s start with the primary colors, primary colors exist on their own, and these colors cannot be made.
They are red, blue and yellow. When the three colors are mixed together. The end result is brown or neutral. Now, let’s look at the secondary colors. Secondary colors are achieved when two primary colors are mixed together. So, for example:
–🔸 Mixing red and yellow will be orange.
–🔸 Mixing red and blue will be violet.
–🔸 Mixing blue and yellow will give us green.
Then we have tertiary colors, tertiary colors are achieved when you mix a primary color, and a secondary color together in equal parts. Now, I want you guys to take a look at the colors that live opposite each other. these are called complementary colors. And they not only complement each other, but also neutralize each other. So this is important when formulating hair color, for example, if you want to remove orange tones from hair, we like to use a blue base. Color because blue is the opposite of orange on the color wheel, giving you a neutral, brown or blonde hue.
As a result, this brings us to our next topics, the level system and basic hue level systems. Level systems are used to describe the level of lightness or opacity in hair at lower levels, where it is darker and levels are higher. The lightest meaning uses a level system from one to ten with one being the darkest brown or black and 10 being the lightest pale blond. We actually removed level 2 because it is indistinguishable to the human eye, to distinguish it below 3.
We also have to talk about base pigment now, base pigment is a natural hair pigment that is present in everyone’s hair, but is visually exposed. Anytime we raise two or more levels.
For example, if I have a normal level 6 client and I upgrade it to level 8, I will reveal some golden hue. Thanks to the color wheel. I know the violet cancels out the gold so I’m going to use the violet to get a beautiful blonde and as a result. Before we take a deeper look at hair color. Let’s take a look at the pair itself. Let’s take a look at the hair structure.
The hair is divided into three layers, the outer layer being the outer layer. Then you have the medulla, which is not found in everyone’s hair, but usually lives in coarse hair structures. Now let’s look at the texture. Regardless, if your hair is curly or straight, the hair will fall into three categories. Medium fine and coarse fine.
Hair is the smallest of the three, and you can barely feel it when it’s solitary.
Medium hair is the most common type and coarse hair is the most resistant to damage and is thicker in diameter than all other hair strands.
Then we have density, and density talks about the number of hairs on the head as well as how closely they are interconnected. They are together on the scalp.
Interestingly, a person with fine hair is likely to have very high density, while the opposite may happen to someone with coarse hair. They may have a low density. This is also very important. When you configure the food to make sure you get the result you are looking for. Another thing to keep in mind is porosity, porosity talks about the hair’s ability to accept and hold things like moisture and/or hair color.
And like many others we’ve discussed today, it’s divided into three groups, high, medium, and low, someone with high porosity, who accepts hair dye very quickly. But usually, their color is the fastest to fade. Whereas someone with low porosity may be resistant to hair color and you will end up with long hair.
Its Time to Process Once you have all this information through a thorough consultation with your client, you’re well on your way to being able to craft in color before we even start crafting. It is important to take a look at the different types of dyes that live within hair color, direct dyes, and indirect dyes.
Let’s find out what makes them different. Direct dyes have a larger molecule than direct dyes. They do not need a developer in order to work and live on the hair cuticle layer. In direct dyes, a slightly smaller molecule, require a developer, and those living in the cortex layer of a hair developer or hydrogen peroxide is an oxidizing agent necessary for the hair dye to perform its function. Now different brands, make different developers with different plug sizes, buffers, and conditioners.
Therefore it is very important that you use the developer dedicated to the specific brand of hair color to achieve maximum performance and integrity. There is a lot of science and chemistry behind the art of hair coloring. Isn’t it there? This is why I Can Recolor has a five-step drafting approach to make achieving all of these things easier.